Route = Shivalaya (1784m) – Deurali Pass (2705m) – Bhandar (2104m) – Kinja (1600m)
Date = 06-07 March
It’s a pleasant 12°C as L cleans her teeth at an outdoor sink, spitting toothpaste into the dirt. She can’t spit into the sink as their host is washing his trousers.
She watches Phurba tie rope around their 25kg kit bag, add his own much smaller backpack and then pick the whole thing up suspended from his head by a band of webbing. He leans forward into the weight and lopes off, arms hanging down in front of him as counterbalance. L is aghast.
L: Angtu! He can’t possibly carry all our stuff like that! From a single point on his head! Hanging by a piece of string! We must do something!
Angtu looks a bit surprised.
L: I thought he’d have a rucksack. We must get him a rucksack!
Angtu: He doesn’t want one. He prefers it like this. All porters carry like this.
L: Surely it would be so much better to spread the weight through his shoulders and hips. What about his poor neck? And his back?
Angtu shrugs and smiles politely.
L is mortified. She wonders if she should turn herself in for human rights abuses. She can’t bear to look at Phurba – at what she has done to him. D steps in.
D: It’s a tumpline. People have used them to carry stuff, all over the world, for ever.
L: But not any more! There are modern alternatives.
D: Patagonia uses them.
L: The country?
D: It’s not strictly a country. Never mind. The posh outdoor equipment company. Their founder swears by them.
D: Look – if you don’t know what you’re doing, and you need to carry a weight, you’re less likely to injure yourself with a backpack. But if you do know what you’re doing, it’s a different story.
L: What d’you mean?
D: The general opinion is that it’s physically healthier and more efficient to use a tumpline. You need to learn the proper posture and technique, and to build up your neck and back muscles. But once you do, it’s better for you.
L: How can it be?
D: It spreads the weight evenly down the strongest bits of your body. And it doesn’t squash your lungs. And in an emergency it’s a lot easier to throw off than a rucksack.
They look ahead to where Phurba is stepping lightly and sure-footedly up the trail ahead of them, singing loudly to himself.
L: So d’you think he knows what he’s doing?
D: Looks that way to me.
Under a clear blue sky, they climb the hillside high above Shivalaya, the blue and silver of corrugated tin roofs glinting below their feet in the sunlight. Strains of music from a wedding procession drift up from the village – the steady beat of drums and the unruly joy of a trumpet. At one end of the river valley, in the far distance, snowy peaks rise up, beckoning. As the gradient steepens, the terraced fields become ever smaller, like vertical ripples in a pond of vibrant green buckwheat. Fruit trees are in blossom and the white petals of huge magnolias speckle the forested hillsides.
Angtu sets a steady, sustainable pace, leading the way, and L is relieved that she can keep up. Phurba walks with them, and the two Nepalis chat and laugh their way up the hill. They cross, and recross, and briefly follow the road. The road is not actually a road, but a road-sized sandy ribbon, winding its way ever deeper into these hills, promising long-awaited access for remote villages to schools and doctors, markets and jobs. For now though, the only people on it are builders and engineers and surveyors. Those on foot keep away – there is too much dust and not enough shade – and no-one has a vehicle anyway.
On a grassy slope a handful of goats and cattle graze. They pause at a tidy paved courtyard between low wooden buildings and venture inside. The small room is blackened with smoke from an open fireplace which has no chimney. On the walls hang tin mugs and gleaming pots & pans. They sit at a bench and sip hot sweet tea. Angtu acts as go-between as their hostess offers a taste of curd – a slightly fermented yoghurt – and a ricotta-type cow’s cheese she has made.
Angtu: We have a very special type of cattle here in Nepal. Very high milk yield. Called Jersey Cow.
D: Oh! We have those! They come from an island, just off the coast of Britain. Called Jersey.
Angtu looks sceptical but says nothing. Their hostess tells them they keep the cow for milk and goats for meat. They grow buckwheat, maize, potatoes and vegetables. They talk about the road. Progress has come swiftly to this area – in just a few years they have also seen the arrival of hydroelectric power, satellite TV, and wifi. Sanitation, though, remains simple. Most dwellings have a separate wooden outhouse, with a hole in the floor, placed at the edge of a field. The waste collects below and is then raked onto the field and used as fertiliser to grow potatoes.
They carry on, ever upwards, on stony paved and stepped paths, now through scrub woodland, to reach the dusty expanse of the Deurali Pass. A few buildings and lodges huddle in the stiff breeze.
Angtu: Left! Go left!
D pauses, startled, looking for hazards in the path.
Angtu: Look – you must pass to the left here. Always clockwise.
At the centre of a clearing are five long double-sided mani walls, hundreds of metres of carved stone tablets inscribed with the sacred Buddhist mantra “om mani padme hum” or “hail to the jewel in the lotus”.
L: Why left?
Angtu looks at her in astonishment, then explains patiently.
Angtu: Because that is the path of the world, of course. Everything in our universe moves clockwise.
L: Of course. Stupid.
It’s time for lunch. D&L sit determinedly in the sun, adding layers of clothing and eating dal bhat. Angtu and Phurba head indoors to sit by the warmth of the kitchen hearth.
As they begin their long descent into the huge green Bhandar valley, D stops.
D: Take a photo!
He stands excitedly beside a small lopsided signpost announcing “Way To Everest”.
L: But it’s only day 1. We’re over three weeks walk from Everest.
D: I know, but we’re on our way. The signpost says so!
Later Phurba stops and rests his load on a wall. He points at a long low wooden shed with a tin roof, and says something to Angtu.
Angtu: It’s a school. For your pencils?
L&D have filled their pack with coloured pencils and crayons to give to village schools. They walk across the dusty yard, where a number of tiny children in lilac shirts and dark trousers are emerging from the building. They have crocs on their feet and a few are wearing ties. L&D greet the three female teachers. They rummage in their pack and hand out pencils and crayons as the kids crowd around them. The teachers explain that the school has 25 pupils aged between 6 and 15, though today there are only 20. They seem younger, none of them much older than 9.
The children are arranged into rows. Despite the interruption it is time for their exercise class. One of the older boys stands at the front and calls out numbers in English, one to nine, as he leads them through a series of star jumps, squats, toe-touches and stretches. D joins in. The children begin to stare, then giggle. The caller proudly continues his routine and his audience follow, but all eyes are on D. The teachers laugh out loud and get out their camera phones. Angtu and Phurba look on, amused.
Bhandar is idyllic – a widely spaced scattering of attractive stone buildings on a gentle slope of green meadow. It was badly damaged in the earthquake of 2015 and lots of rebuilding is going on. The lodges around the central square are full of road-building engineers, so they continue to the very bottom of the village. At their whitewashed, blue balconied lodge, sunshine streams through the windows. The mattresses are very thin. Downstairs there is one indoor squat loo, but no water has been provided.
L: Angtu – umm…is there a bathroom?
Angtu: Outside. Toilet and also a shower.
On a paved terrace sit several girls, one braiding the long dark hair of another. Beyond them is a tin outhouse with two doors. In one is a squat loo, bucket of water and jug, and in the other a concrete floor and electric shower. At a corner of the terrace is a concrete sink and cold water tap. These facilities are shared between all guests and family members. L has a shower. The water is tepid and the overwhelming smell of pee from next-door makes her gag, but she is not to know that warm water from a shower head will become a rare treat indeed.
Having eaten dal bhat once today already, they opt for pasta for supper. It’s a mistake. They are still feeling their way.
The next morning they sit on the terrace in bright sunshine. Angtu looks bleary.
Angtu: I am so sorry. Very bad night.
Angtu: Very drunk Nepali. I think he was an engineer. All that talking and singing and snoring. Then he would stop. Then he would start again. This is not normal.
D: We thought maybe it was always like that. We just put in our earplugs. We slept well.
They drop towards the river, peeling off layers of clothing as they go. The day is warming up under a strong sun. A track winds around the hillside, where deep red rhododendrons and pink-blossomed fruit trees are in flower. They descend through wet, irrigated gullies of cardamom plants. As they dash to dodge the sprinklers Angtu explains.
Angtu: They need a lot of water!
L: Do Nepalis use cardamom for cooking?
Angtu: No – they sell it all to India and China for medicines.
D: It’s one of the most expensive spices in the world. I think only vanilla and saffron cost more.
L: That’ll be why they don’t use it themselves – it’s worth too much. Like saffron in Italy – it’s quite difficult to even buy it where it’s grown – it’s all carefully packaged up and exported.
Further on, they spot a toddler clinging to a rock built into a stone wall on the steep bank above the path. She appears to be alone. Angtu speaks to the little girl. She replies eloquently, with great dignity. Angtu scrambles up the bank, carefully picks up the child, gives her a gentle pinch on the cheek, and lifts her over the wall. He puts her down, she turns and thanks him and scampers off as her mother appears. She had been looking for a good piece of firewood and got stuck – unable to either get back up the wall or down the steep bank.
They reach the village of Kinja at lunchtime and eat dal bhat outside a smart-looking guest-house. A sign boasts “hot shower” and “attached bathroom”. That does it – they decide to go no further.
Angtu chooses their room, which needs cleaning. He attempts to rally the chatty young hostesses, then does it himself with a dustpan and brush and Phurba.
The hostesses prove to be better at sign-writing than provision of service. The “attached” bathroom is attached to the building, not the bedroom. It’s downstairs, with a squat toilet and shared with the rest of the building’s inhabitants. “Hot shower” translates to “washing up bowl of boiling water into which you add cold water from the loo flush bucket and stand in a shower tray next to the squat loo”. D&L bathe in the washing up bowl and are careful not to step barefoot into the adjacent squat toilet bowl.
Kinja sits where a confluence of rivers force a widening of the valley floor. There are enormous boulders strewn about, possibly ancient remnants of glacial moraine, as they do not appear to have tumbled from the mountainsides above. The village was badly shaken by the earthquake and there is plenty of construction taking place. A couple of boys clatter past, to and fro along the neatly paved alleys, with wheelbarrows full of building stone. The end wall has fallen off a house nearby, and another is crumbling and abandoned, used only to tether a goat from a doorpost. Laundry is spread out on a woodpile to dry, and a solar kettle reflects the sunlight from its enormous mirrored dish to a blackened pot suspended at its centre. Flowering nasturtiums crawl over a low wall and a cactus tree provides an incongruous foreground for the distant snows beyond.
They are now drinking local water – sourced from it hardly matters where. D first carefully squeezes it through a filter and then adds purification tabs for good measure. It is failsafe and tastes no worse than London water. Over the course of their trek it will stop them needing to buy and dispose of around 120 plastic bottles of water.
As the afternoon wears on, L begins to feel feverish and cold. She wraps up in excessive layers of clothing and has porridge for supper.